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The day after returning from Kyoto, I had the honor of giving a lecture at the request of the Japan International Cooperation Center (JICE) for the Ministry of Foreign Affairs–supported SAARC online program, “JENESYS.” SAARC (South Asian Association for Regional Cooperation) is a regional organization established in 1985 to promote economic, social, and cultural development and to strengthen solidarity among South Asian countries. Its eight member states are Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, the Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka. JENESYS is a people-to-people exchange program between Japan and countries across Asia and Oceania. It aims to foster future leaders with strong communication skills, deepen interest and understanding of Japan, strengthen international outreach, and expand Japan’s diplomatic foundation through cultural exchange. During the session, I gave a wagashi demonstration and a lecture on the relationship between wagashi, Japanese history, and traditional cultural events. I demonstrated how to make spring-themed nerikiri. Unlike my usual online lessons, the participants were only watching through the screen and not making the sweets together with me. I was initially unsure how engaged they would feel. However, the participants showed great interest—so much so that we extended the Q&A session. The feedback afterward was also very positive. I believe it was a meaningful opportunity for them to deepen their understanding of wagashi and to learn about the beauty of Japanese culture. During the Q&A session, I was even asked about the proper way to eat nerikiri, which made me smile.
It was a valuable experience for me as well. Thank you very much to everyone who participated!
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The last day in Gion was Setsubun(節分)Setsubun is a traditional Japanese event celebrated on the 3rd of February, It marks the transition from winter to spring according to the lunar calendar and is considered a time to drive away bad luck and welcome good fortune. The most famous Setsubun custom is throwing roasted soybeans while saying: “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (“Demons out! Good fortune in!”) People throw beans inside and outside their homes to symbolically chase away evil spirits and invite happiness. Often, a family member wears an “oni” (demon) mask to make the event more fun, especially for children. This year, I had the rare opportunity to throw beans at the Yasaka Temple in Gion. My friend from school had invited me to join her group to throw beans on stage. Her group Imayoutabugakukai(今様謌会舞楽会) studies and preserves Imayo through performances and cultural activities in Japan and abroad. Imayō is a style of popular song from the Heian period. Meaning “songs of the present time,” it was enjoyed by people of all social classes. Imayoutabugakukai(今様謌会舞楽会) website Since there are no demons in the Yasaka Shrine, we only shout "Fukuwa uchi" (Good Fortune in!) What an experience. I hope we will enjoy good fortune this year!
While we were in Kyoto, we made a day trip to Uji, a region renowned for producing some of Japan’s finest green tea. The Main Street is only about 5 minutes from Uji Station. On our way, we stopped for lunch at a Ramen shop, Menya Inoichi on the way. Most of the customers were tourists, but surprisingly their ramen noodles were very good and highly recommended if you are in Uji. We started our tour in Uji with a tea grinding experience at Mituboshien Kanbayashi Sannyu Tea shop. The owner claims that they are one of the oldest tea shop in Uji, which first started in the Tensho Era. (16 C) Along with the long history and tradition that it inherited, the store is known as the master of tea ceremony for the Shogunate. After the tea grinding experience, you can taste their matcha with some sweets. A bit disappointed that we didn't drink what we ground, but it the tea was good. They have a museum on the 2nd floor. The owner who is the 14th generation Kanbayashi, kindly gave us a tour and explained to us of their history of making tea. They only sell in Uji as their tea is 100% from Uji, that's why I didn't know them. (Since the tea farm is limited and cannot produce mass quantities, most of the mass produced tea, which claims to be from Uji, many not be 100% from Uji) There are several places you can experience matcha tea grinding, but most places require you to book in advance. To book an experience, please visit the following websites: Mituboshi Kanbayashi Sannyu Tea shop Fukujuen Uji Kobo Nakamura Tokichi Chazuna (Historical Park of Tea and of Uji Town) After a shopping spree in Mitsuboshi Kanbayashi, we stopped at Nakamura Tokichi Tea shop on the same street. Nakamura Tokichi is a historic tea shop founded in Uji, Kyoto in 1854, For over 170 years, the shop has preserved Uji’s tea-making traditions while offering exceptional matcha, hojicha, and tea-based sweets. Today, it is especially loved for its beautifully crafted desserts such as matcha parfaits and seasonal wagashi, Too bad we didn't have time to visit their cafe, After visiting the Byodoin Temple, (Which is the temple engraved in the 10 yen coin), we headed out to visit Marukyu Koyamaen Tea shop. It is located in the next station, Ogura, near the Nintendo Museum, a short taxi ride from Uji (or it is about 10 min. walk from Ogura Station) They have an interesting factory tour, but it has to be booked at least 1 week in advance. Maybe next time! Since it is a small shop, they only allow a certain number of customers at once, so you may be required to wait outside with a number card. They also restrict the qty of matcha you can buy at once. We then took a break at the Cafe run by Morhan, which is a major tea manufacturer in Japan. They specialize not only in green tea but also, English tea and coffee.. They have a place called Tea square Morihan where you can shop and eat their sweets. Apart from the cafe there is also a take away counter where you can enjoy the sweets in a room with tables and chairs. We ended our journey with shopping at Morhan's shop next to the cafe. If you would like to visit the places we visited in Uji, click on the map to get more details.
Last week, I had the opportunity to accompany visitors from Jakarta, Indonesia. As the owner of Elm’s Corner, our certified school in Indonesia, she was eager to experience as many authentic wagashi as possible during her stay in Japan. And where better to enjoy traditional Japanese sweets than in Kyoto? Kyoto has a long and rich history of wagashi, as it served as Japan’s capital for over a thousand years before the capital was relocated to Tokyo. Many wagashi shops in Kyoto have been passed down through generations, and their craftsmanship and pride in tradition are truly remarkable. So, where should you go to find the best wagashi? One of the most convenient and reliable places is the basement floor of Isetan at Kyoto Station. Here, you can find a wide selection of sweets from some of Kyoto’s most well-known and respected wagashi shops—all in one place. Here is what we bought on our first day at Isetan: 阿闍梨餅(満月)Ajarimochi from Mangetsu 松風(亀屋陸奥)Matsukaze from Kameyamutsu わらび餅(かぎや政秋)Warabimochi from Kagiyamasaaki かさね餅(かぎや政秋)Kasanemochi from Kagiyamasaaki 京観世(鶴屋吉信)Kyokanze from Tsuruya Yoshinobu 八ツ橋(聖護院)Yatuhashi from Shogoin 生八ツ橋(西尾)Namayatsuhashi from Nishio 生麩まんじゅう(五建外良屋)Namafumanjyu from Gokenuiroya ういろう(五建外良屋)Uiro from Gokenuiroya 焼き栗(林万昌堂)Roasted Chestnuts from Hayashimanshodo ふくみ天平(たねや)Fukumi Tenpei from Taneya 月化粧(青木松風庵)Tsukigesho from Aokimatukazean - From Osaka The following day, we went to Takashimaya in Shijo Station to queue for Demachi Futaba's Mamemochi Their mamemochi is said to be number one in Kyoto. So what ;makes their daifuku so special? It is the azuki beans they use and the water that is from a well in Kyoto. Since the bean paste is made with only water, beans and sugar the quality of the ingredients are crucial in making a good daifuku. Their shop is in Demachiyanagi Station but they sell a small quantity in department stores. After that we walked to Gion, to go to Ryokujuan Shimizu, the only shop in Japan which specializes in Kompeito. The shop opened in 1847 and stili makes Kompeito the same way, which is made in a big pan taking over 2 weeks. Konpeitō has long been used as a traditional gift for the Imperial Family in weddings. It cannot be made overnight. Instead, artisans patiently and lovingly craft each piece over a period of more than two weeks. This careful process is said to resemble both the journey of two people building their life together and the loving devotion of parents who raised them. After having lunch at Mametora, (Their lunch is famous for mini temari sushi), we couldn't resist eating dessert - warabimochi. Kyoto is known for warabi mochi and during this trip we ate a lot of warabimochi, but we all agreed that the Hon-warabimochi from Kagiya Masaaki was the best. Hon-warabimochi is the real warabi mochi as most warabimochi uses starch from lotus root, tapioca, or sweet potato starch. Hon-warabimochi uses starch from a warabi root (braken fern). Since you can only get 5% of starch from the harvested root, it is very rare and expensive. So if you want to try the real warabimochi, make sure you choose warabimochi using hon-warabi (本わらび). On our way to Kiyomizu Temple, we couldn't resist getting a cute looking Wagashi stick from Itoken. In one skewer, you can enjoy wagashi like Konashi, Kingyokukan, Dango, Joyomanjyu, and Ukishima. On our way back to our hotel, we decided to take a break at a wagashi cafe Jumondo(十文堂) in Gion This shop specializes in mini-size grilled dango. Since it's a mini size, you can enjoy many flavors. The two other wagashi that we didn't have the chance to get was Oike-senbei (御池煎餅) from Kameya Yoshinaga (亀屋良永)and Seijokankidan(清浄歓喜団)from Kameya Kiyonaga(亀屋清永)
Maybe next time! |
AuthorI'm Miyuki and I teach Japanese Home cooking at my home in Tokyo. Archives
February 2026
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